I am so thankful to those that encouraged and inspired Cyan and I to attempt the traverse. It is considered one of the most spectacular bushwalks in Australia for good reason. Words and photographs fail to adequately communicate the experience.
We were packed ready for seven nights and we completed it in five days. We stripped down everything and carried the least amount we could. We could have dumped the rope, and Cyan started the walk with a jacket on that was meant to be left in the car. He finished his book and had to read mine, so next time he will need to take two. On most walks my pack is brimming to the very top, yet on this one I could have left the lid behind to save a few more grams, as I still had some room inside. I impressed myself with my frugal packing.
On the days we walked the flats to get to and from the range, we walked hard and fast in the heat and covered more than twenty kilometres on each of them. It really surprised us that we were able to travel so far together. Cyan is going to have long legs like me that make walking a joy.
This is a view of the section of the Western Arthur’s we walked from the track out. We traversed the very tops of this range from one end to the other. We climbed up Alpha Moraine at the far right and came down Kappa Moraine at the far left. This is considered only a partial traverse, with another few days needed to complete the whole one. Unfortunately a fire a few years ago leaves the rest of the walk closed while it tries to recover.
Once we were off the flats the walking changed dramatically in pace, style, weather and views. Basically we climbed and scrambled our way along the tops, managing only a couple of kilometres each day. We took our time and enjoyed the time we were up high. We camped each night near beautiful lakes and were blessed with cooler weather, rain and mist. We felt like we were on top of the world with the mist forming around us as the air rose up the mountain sides.
Cyan wanted a challenging walk, particularly after our failed attempt of the Overland Track in winter due to the weather, and in all honesty this one was perfect for us both. It pushed us both just enough and was so rewarding that we both ache for more.
One question now remains, which walk do we do next? One day we will have to return to do the full traverse.
If you are considering this walk, please make sure your adequately prepared with the appropriate skills and equipment for alpine off track walking. This walk is not for the faint of heart or one with a fear of heights. It’s more of a climb than a walk. Well, scramble really.
I will spoil you with more photography from this walk in the future as I have some gorgeous work to share with you.
The photograph leading today’s musings is one of the clefts we climbed down as we navigated our way along the tops.
Western Arthurs, Tasmania, photography and text copyright © Len Metcalf 2020